A Life-Changing Session Begins a Long Adventure

Itinerary: Ireland 5 weeks, Hawaii 4 weeks and LA 1 week. Sounds good.

I’ve been in Ireland for 2 weeks already and I can safely say it has been filled wit high action! The highlight session was 3 days ago where Ollie, Tom, Ian and myself found ourselves looking over the cliff at some dangerous mounds of water breaking on a slab 300 feet below. Half an hour later I found myself at the foot of a beautiful arena and staring down the barrel of epic, heavy waves. It looked 6 ft and pumping. Then the ski came around the corner to lend some perspective. Ollie and Tom looked like ants and I realized it was far bigger than I had imagined. Ollie’s first wave was 10 ft and he back-doored one of the most menacing pieces of ocean I had ever seen. The wave ended up running out of water and gurgling him up.

I thought, maybe this isn’t for me…

I paddled out and sat with some of the body boarders who were paddling some bombs. However, when the sets came through, there was an unspoken agreement; the ocean was in charge, and the paddlers gave way for the tow. We watched set after set drain off the reef and reveal the slate of rock that was barely covered by water. This did little to calm my nerves. I was praying hard  throughout and when the boys kindly offered me the rope I felt absolute peace. It was incredible. I got towed into two sketchy ones which gave me a serious rattling.

And then Tom whipped me into a bomb which was arguably the heaviest wave of my life.

When I saw the bump of water moving in I thought to myself, oh my goodness this is a massive one. I let go and put myself behind the peak and the ocean went low tide on me. Man it was violent. It was sucking so hard off the reef that I found myself riding straight towards the cliffs with the lip reaching out over me. I was blurted  out the end with spit and foamball.

Shortly after that Ollie nearly drowned.

We all stood on the rocks afterwards and knew we had just experienced something special.

rileys ireland

Repost from @patches_w. For perspective, that wave is 8ft


Photo: Aaron Rich. The boys after the session

I tried acting in a Frutarre ad

Check this out :)

Smooth cat walking with the surfboard and diving off a wave while getting blasted by fruit.

Finally getting wet again!

It’s been over four months of sore ankle. So I went over to visit my big bro, tattoo artist Nick Mudskipper, in Bangkok. Was amazing! I tattooed my bro and went to the islands with out my board. Snorkeling can be pretty fun!

DCIM100GOPRO 10743505_10152545441293382_799256739_n

Yesterday was my first surf in quality waves in a long time… I was extremely amped.

We scored some ferocious waves at the Hoek and then I walked down the beach and that was lined up and perfect.

Thanks Ian Thurtell for the Screen grabs on my 6’2 Starboard

cape town

Barrels, cape town

I’m starting my exams on Tuesday and then am off to Ireland shortly after that!

Time to hit the road again!

Dungeons..one of the gnarliest drops of my life earlier in the year

Thanks Alan van Gysen you legend for this shot. Brother Love.


Code Red, Teahupoo

I like to fist pump when I see mega pits. Check me on the left screaming at a monster during the Code Red swell 3 years back!

teahupoo tahiti code red

Dungeons hits Amber Alert for The Big Wave World Tour

Good morning! I woke up to a very pleasant notification; The Dungeons BWWT event is on Amber Alert for Tuesday next week! There is solid West swell approaching with good winds and a really big period which could deliver 20ft plus waves.

Dungeons World Tour event

Large, long period West swell!

The final call for the event will be made on Saturday!

The ankle is feeling a lot better and I’m frothing!

dungeons world tour event

Past 2014 carnage at Dungeons. Photo: Brenton Geach


Still man-down

The last 2 months have been pretty different to the norm with no surfing. I just cancelled on the Billabong Pro Tahiti Trials because the ankle is still feeling shakey..

But i’ve been spending my time getting fit on the bike and in the pool. When I go to sleep at night all I can think about is massive waves and deep, big barrels. This visualization is getting me super pumped to charge again..maybe another month until I can tackle the big stuff.

We’re also in the last month for the Big Wave World Tour event at Dungeons.. So hopefully the beast awakens before the end of August!

Down the line is looking really good for a trip to Indo and Ireland.

I’m feeling a new “froth” for surfing boiling up again!




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