Jaws was definitely a highlight for me from the trip! Tyler and I were debating whether to go or not, we said a little prayer and suddenly both felt it was the right call. We jumped on a flight the next day, we picked up our laani(classy) rental car and my 10’6 Lyle Carlson beast which had just arrived from Cali.
The following afternoon, I paddled out to the legendary wave, Jaws. It was a fun size but super windy! HOWEVER THE BUOYS WERE 20FT @ 20SECONDS so we knew in the next few hours a massive swell was going to hit. I waited patiently for a west bowl wave and didn’t realize I was drifting into the impact zone. I floated over a wave and was horrified to see the biggest wall of water that i had ever seen! I knew I wasn’t going to make it over the wave. It was drawing me in towards it , sucking up the water and it stood up tall as the energy felt the reef. I was paddling head down, trying to control my breathing while praying for power and peace. As the wave towered over me I leapt to my feet on the board and dove into the face, thinking I’m going over the falls for sure. I swam through the bubble of energy suspended in the eye of the storm. I felt my board start pulling and I thought, here we go, going over. My leash went ‘ting’ and suddenly I was free. I had made it! I swam all the way in and asked a ski driver if he had seen my board. He pointed for the rocks…I picked my board up and it was absolutely smashed, totaled!
I walked up the cliff and watched from above as 30-40ft backdoor-like bombs freight-trained down the reef. It was unbelievable to see!
The next day we scored perfect 15-20ft waves with light offshore winds. Josh Redman lent me his 9’6. I had one really cool barrel and watched Josh drive through one of the tubes of his life. It was a pretty special day!
Thanks Peahi, see you next year!