Big barrels on the Magic Stretch
The last week has been pumping huge barrels. When I woke up this morning I was psyched the waves were small cause my body is ended and my barrel-ometer is ticking over.
3 Days ago was just ridiculous. Tyler red and I linked on a sick one at Off The Wall while the barrel fest continued at Backdoor and Pipe with Kelly Slater and Jon Florence…
Yesterday I paddled out at first light again, and had one of the best Pipe wave I’ve had. After watching so many bombs go by day-after-day and acting more as a spectator than anything else, when this double up tee-pee approached, I looked around to see who was going, and everyone was calling me in! That was something! I hard “Go Bromdog” so I spun around and put myself deep, focusing really hard on the drop and paddling super hard down the face. I bottom turned and was super deep so I let go of the rail and pumped no hand into a beautiful cavern. Wow it was a good view. I pulled up super high into the next section and grabbed my rail thinking, this is gonna be like my Wave of the Winter barrel. Suddenly the shock wave sent me flying and I went down. I was psyched to get some compliments from some of the local chargers.
About 3 hours later I was sitting at Off The Wall trying to get a wave in. Zak Noyle and Brent Bielmann were swimming and most of the big shot pro’s had headed in. This massive double came through and I dropped onto the rail and bottomoed turned into one of the biggest barrels of my life. I remember this thick lip reaching out over me, far far into the flat in front of the wave. We linked up a really cool shot and then suddenly the shock wave hit me in the chest. It seriously felt like Mike Tyson had punched me in the chest. I was badly winded and tried to keep myself relaxed until I got to the surface. I was washed up on the beach and sat over my board feeling super shaken up and started coughing up some blood! Luckily that stopped shortly after, but now I feel like I was in a Springbok-New Zealand rugga match yesterday.
I’m making a decision tomorrow whether to follow this `Wednesday swell to Jaws. The forecast is for giant, clean waves and big west bowl barrels!
Just wana say thanks to the Brand family for such warm hospitality over the last two weeks.