Ireland Goodbye, Hello Hawaii

I’m tired, sitting in the Dublin airport and waiting for my long journey to Hawaii to begin. I keep slipping into day dreams about the incredible experience I’ve had here in Ireland. Riley’s, Mullaghmore, Supertubos and Pampa, memories of waves ridden that have been life changing.

Yesterday was a perfect send off with big, hollow, shallow, intense, spitting barrels under the cliffs near Lahinch. I was trading off waves with some of the friendliest chargers I know. These dudes are always jolly and humble, then suddenly they’re paddling into monster slabs and the don’t even mention a word about it. I have so much respect for these guys. They are as gnarly as they come!

Thanks for the most amazing vibes Ireland and a special thanks to Ian Mitchinson who warmly welcomed me into his home and took me on some wild, cold surf adventures!

I’m meeting up with good friend and top-dog photographer, Tyler Walker, in Dubai and then we’re heading off for some warmer adventures on North Shore, Oahu…Pipeline here we come!

Photo: Greg Martin

Photo: Greg Martin

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