Slab Mania and Stoke
The absolute stoke started two days ago, morning! Woke up at 5:15am and headed down to “The Box” with good mate Mark Clarke and Photographer Gordon Becker together with his Sis, Heidi.
We sussed out a few while it was still semi-dark and decided to give it a crack. We had the freakin sickest session, just three of us out! The sets were unridable, as they were gurgling over the shallow uneven reef, but the in-between, North Peaks were just insane! Such a session, with hardly anyone out. Got so barreled and no injuries.
Then later that evening we went on a solid mission with the same crew. We left it til pretty late so we were driving in the dark. Never do this in WA. It is so SKETCHY! We dodged 5 Kangaroos hopping across the road, one owl and hundreds of rabbits. We arrived at the spot, set up camp, which was on a piece of tar, ate some tuna on role and then passed out on the most uncomfortable, hardest “bed” ever! It was amazing there though; so quiet, so peaceful, no one around.
We awoke at first light, and had a proper adventure to the wave, a serious walk. We arrived and it was a little lumpy but some mental ones! Mark’s a body boarder, and he failed to emphasize just how heavy the wave actually is. It sucked up almost dry on a piece of flat reef and I doubted that I’d be able to even make one of these mutants. Still, the was no one around and we were just surrounded by surreal landscapes and the rawness of nature.
Mark got a few smokers, and I slowly edged my way into a few smaller ones. Then I plucked up the courage for one of the nugs. As I stroked in, i could see all the reef below me. I air dropped sideways into a stand up, sucky, warpy shack that spat me out the end. We traded off heaps of goodies and had ourselves an epic session! As I was building confidence, I paddled for a deep drainer, and the whole reef boiled up below me. I tried to pull back, but got sucked over straight into the reef. It was one of the more brutal beatings I’ve had.
We trekked back to Margies, and I the swell had exponentially picked up. It was huge! I was scratching to get a lift to North Point, it had to be cooking there! I had no transport, tried everyone, no answer. I seriously was like, God, whatever happens is in your purpose.
I log onto Facebook, and then I see Richie Sills has been trying to get hold of me. I call him up and he’s visiting a mate, and that lives in the same road as I am! I was like, ok this looks good! haha.. So Richie, Simon(his Durban buddy) and myself, raced off to Northies with an hour and a half of light left.
It was CRANKING!!!!!!!!!!!!
There was a crisp offshore wind kissing the faces and it was 6-8ft, and barreling top-to-bottom down the ledge for a hundred metres. Freight Trains!
We all got so so barreled in the late hours of a magical evening. We were dropping into 8ft walls that lined up to the other side of the bay. This clean, perfect wall then bottomed out on the end bowl and went square, spitting chunks of water out into the channel! It was an hour of pure euphoria!! We drove home with some good tunes, beer in hand, and some good old South african banter! Wowza!
That was just the most amazing two days..
Thanks God and thanks WA!
More swell and good conditions on the way!