We just got back from the most insane trip!
We were aiming to get 10ft Nias. But the swell came and it was around 6-8ft perfection. I woke up frothing to get out there, however Brad Masters had other plans! He was busy putting together the goods for another wave. We left smoking, good barrels in search for another massive right-hander. I thought that was a big call to make, but we arrived to a perfect( I mean as perfect as you get) 10ft set. No one out! Marti and myself jumped in and scored some absolute nuggets! There were a couple 12 footers that we wanted nothing to do with, but otherwise, it was just us two trading, off on some massive bombs. That was one of the most special sessions of my life. 2 mates, the best waves I’ve ever seen in my life, the warmest water you’ve ever felt, palm trees lining the shoreline and a photog and filmer to capture the goods! Living da tropical dream brada..
We had 3 days of this…
During the day, the wind would come up and we’d be out at the main break, Lagundri, doing airs and smashing 4 turns to the channel.
The chow was amazing! Real surfers food; massive portions of deep fried feed.
All-in-all its one of the best trips of my life! Going off the track-well travelled gives you experiences you’ll never forget. Talking kak with your mates as the sun sets after a perfect day of surfing over a cold Bintang…doesn’t get much better.
We busy tracking down another swell for a secret right and left in Java. Back to the jungle.