The Dungeons comp was on standby for the Thursday but the winds came up. However the same pulse was heading up to Skeleton Bay. And it was the biggest swell I’ve ever seen! Monster booked us flights last minute and a day later we were in the middle of the desert waiting for the beast to awaken. It was hard to believe the hype, and the morning of the swell, 60 eager surfers stood on the beach squinting in the mist trying to see what was out there. I paddled out early and you could only see the wave when it was like 30 metres away. It was 8ft, spring low and going below sea level for a km. My entry wave for the day was an attempt on a big one. I went over the falls into dry sand and thought I was going to die. The day pushed on and the waves got bigger! By midday we were dodging 10 footers which looked like a mini version of the “CODE RED” Teahupoo Swell. There’s no way in on the big ones, it bends back on itself on virtually dry sand and grind like this for 2 minutes!!!!! But in between those is an opportunity to get the wave of your life. As you take off you have to get pumping, and most of the time it over takes you and you get seriously beaten into the sand. Davey Brand dislocated his shoulder and another dude broke his nose. It feels like you’re paddling into a closeout. The rip running down the point is ridiculous! So after every ride you have to walk around like 800m. Everything about this spot is raw and heavy. Its for ruggard men who are willing to get man handled in the hope of a wave of a life time.
It gets pretty freaking scary when you get a 6m swell at 22secs..well something like that! We chased the swell across the bay to Dungeons along with some camera crew to do some filming for the first episode of my Monster Energy webisode series. Wednesday evening was when the swell started marching in. I only got out there around 16:45 and as we tried to make sense of the wild, lumpy condition, the sets were just getting bigger and bigger towards dark. My 2nd one was super intense! I launched over two terraces down the rugged face and bottom turned into a beautiful big Dunnies wall. Two sections later I was riding into the channel, relieved and frothing.
The next morning, I was first out in the water. We saw some waves, but knew this wasn’t the swell. The sets had to bigger according to Windguru… sitting out the back, now with Frank Solomon, suddenly a wave closes out on the horizon, from Tafelberg Reef to Valcon Rcok. MAYDAY! We looked at each other and started sprinting for the horizon. I was absolutely kakking myself! When waves show out the back there, you know two things, 1. The set is 20ft plus and 2. you have around 90 seconds to to get as far out as you can before it hits the Dungeons reef. The set hit and it was soooooo massive, I don’t even want to make calls on the size, but I’m 100% sure it was bigger than 20 ft! It took me a while to get into my stride, but I had some walled up bombs! Wave were reeling down the reef like a massive point break! On my 3rd wave into the session, I rolled into a double that stood up all the way to the channel. I knifed it down the face and to my horror, realised I had few options but to pull in. I back-doored the end bowl, and rode into a monster foamball and got smoked!
It was an incredible day of big surf and we were joined by a hoard of WQS warriors that stayed on from the Quiksilver comp, the weekend before. These boys were charging! Dale Staples got a massive one.
The day finished with some beers at the yacht club and a big chow. Good times and great vibes.
Wow, I have never acted before..Bruce Macdonald comes up to me and asks if I want to act in a movie. It’s now a year later and I have a major role in the film which is in 32 cinemas across SA and heading all over the world!.
The last month has been maniac and life changing. I’ve just arrived fresh home from a promotion tour around South Africa for The Perfect Wave. Ian Mccormack travelled along side us as we hit radio stations, TV broadcasters and church functions hard! So many lives were impacted by Ian’s incredible testimony of dying for 15-20 minutes after being stung by 5 Box Jelly Fish and coming back with a radically altered perspective on life. Go check his website at http://www.aglimpseofeternity.org
We reached over 2 million people on the tour and I don’t know how many more will be reached and touched through the film. If you haven’t seen it, then go check it and let me know how my acting is… It’s on the cinemas!