Wow, I have never acted before..Bruce Macdonald comes up to me and asks if I want to act in a movie. It’s now a year later and I have a major role in the film which is in 32 cinemas across SA and heading all over the world!.
The last month has been maniac and life changing. I’ve just arrived fresh home from a promotion tour around South Africa for The Perfect Wave. Ian Mccormack travelled along side us as we hit radio stations, TV broadcasters and church functions hard! So many lives were impacted by Ian’s incredible testimony of dying for 15-20 minutes after being stung by 5 Box Jelly Fish and coming back with a radically altered perspective on life. Go check his website at http://www.aglimpseofeternity.org
We reached over 2 million people on the tour and I don’t know how many more will be reached and touched through the film. If you haven’t seen it, then go check it and let me know how my acting is… It’s on the cinemas!
So the MASSIVE swell turned into a crazy mess on Oahu. But some courageous fellows towed 60ft Jaws! The pics look incredible. My buddy Francesco charged one of the biggest waves of the day and scored a Billabong XXL nomination!
So I flew over to Maui the following day to see what was going down at Jaws. I haven’t seen power like that since Code Red, Teahupoo 3 years back! It was 30-40 ft on the peak and barrelling top to bottom. Shane Dorian, Ian Walsh, Albee Layer, Aaron Gold, Francesco Porcello and a handful of other chargers were out the back, and when I was watching, there were no takers on the big ones. There was so much energy converging, so much water drawing into the peak, it seemed a far fetched idea to actually paddle into one!
Besides the fact that I was terrified of the thought of paddling out, Zane Schweitzer and myself had one gun between us. I would have had to jump off the rocks through the 6ft shore break on the rocks, while Zane paddled. we tried asking some of the boys if they had a board to lend but unfortunately there were none available. So we went over to Honolua Bay and scored some sick barrels! It’s also been a dream to surf Honolua as my Dad surfed it over 30 years ago!
I’m staying with the most amazing people here; The Schweitzer Family. They are absolutely incredible and so is their home! The dad, Matty Senior was a 18 World Titles in windsurfing and Zane, is a junior windsurfing world champion. Their Grand dad was the first person to windsurf! These guys including Matty Junior are freaking gnarly Jaws chargers and they have been showing me the ropes around the island. I’m here to film for Starboard and surf Jaws.
THIS MORING, WE SURFED JAWS! Driving down the famous dirt road through the corn fields gave me the chills! There were some nugs so we suited up and walked down the steep path into the valley. I was borrowing Zane’s 10’6 while he went out on his paddle board. The rock jump is probably the scariest part about Jaws. There were 6ft waves draining up the slippery rocks, so gnarly! I waited long for my first one, a smaller west bowl and then went and sat out the back. There were 15 footers coming through every 20mins or so. Then the horizon went dark and a mental set marched in. Matty Jnr got the first one, Zane stroked into the second bomb which left me next in line. the 3rd one was a freaking bomb! It was walling up all the way to the channel and draining all the water into the peak to fuel the energy. In my head, I was like, this is it! This is what I came to Maui for! I thought I was too deep but I tuned, stuff this, I’m going!!! I spun late and heard owes shouting me in. The drop was steep and clean and when I bottom turned there was there hufe, PERFECT wall of water. I came off the bottom into the pocket and rode it into the channel where Matty and Zane had their arms in the air, claiming it for me! The stoke level was over flowing!
After surfing the best winter in Cape Town’s history, I felt super prepared for the big stuff, but that wave felt like another gear up. Jaws is a perfect wave and it just happens to get 60ft plus! The amount of water and energy that gets sucked into the peak is truly majestic.
I’ve been hearing rumours of a bigger swell approaching for Monday. Here we go!
So, it’s the evening before the MONSTER swell. Locals are saying it’s going to be there biggest swell since a storm that wrecked the North Shore back in the 1960’s! People are barricading their homes with sand bags and building any kind of barrier they can between their homes and the waves. We just moved everything out of the yard at floor level to a story up. We have a 10ft high wall separating us from the beach, but the crew reckon the waves are going to be washing over onto our lawn.
Swell heights and Buoy Readings..MAYDAY!
The swell is fortunately or unfortunately hitting with a howling Northly onshore wind, so I don’t have to make other excuses not to surf the giant waves because its going to be massive and messy!
It’s going to be wild on a whole nother level tomorrow. Everyone’s tripping on the forecast and scared for what tomorrow is going to bring.
As the sun set this evening, the ocean told little of the chaos that awaits dawn. The waves are only 4 ft in front of the house right now but when we wake up tomorrow morning, who know’s what power the Pacific is going to deliver.