Ocean Roars in the early am.
Its 2:01am and im feeling wide awake. I’m sleeping down stairs in the Billabong house and I can clearly hear the waves out in front at Pipe. It sounds big! In the back of my mind sits Friday. Twiggy told me yesterday evening that Waimea Bay on Friday is going to be maxing with close out sets. You know what that means.. 25ft surf plus! Add a 20 second period to that and you could just come across the most terrifying waves of your life. In addition to this I considered heading over to Maui to surf Jaws, however people are thinking it’s going to be too big to physically paddle into the waves.
Its difficult to feel confident in your ability in this small stretch of the famous North Shore. With all the hype, photographers, sponsors, the concentration of pretty much all the best big wave surfers in the world and then the shear power of the ocean, you feel absolutely insignificant.
Despite this overwhelming presence of elements, I am extremely excited for what the week holds.
“Not by might, nor by power but my my spirit”
I’m going to try get some sleep…