Good morning! I woke up to a very pleasant notification; The Dungeons BWWT event is on Amber Alert for Tuesday next week! There is solid West swell approaching with good winds and a really big period which could deliver 20ft plus waves.
The final call for the event will be made on Saturday!
The ankle is feeling a lot better and I’m frothing!
The last 2 months have been pretty different to the norm with no surfing. I just cancelled on the Billabong Pro Tahiti Trials because the ankle is still feeling shakey..
But i’ve been spending my time getting fit on the bike and in the pool. When I go to sleep at night all I can think about is massive waves and deep, big barrels. This visualization is getting me super pumped to charge again..maybe another month until I can tackle the big stuff.
We’re also in the last month for the Big Wave World Tour event at Dungeons.. So hopefully the beast awakens before the end of August!
Down the line is looking really good for a trip to Indo and Ireland.
I’m feeling a new “froth” for surfing boiling up again!
Yani Trout and Nigel are doing some amazing things at the 9Miles project where they teach underprivileged kids life skills and how to rip and tear on the waves.
I told a couple surf stories to the boys, showed them some footage and tried to share some inspiration about finding your passion and chasing down your dreams.
Then we went into their little village near Stanrdfonetin and gave away some blankies.
We’re going to be collecting more blankets, clothes, food and other supplies for these guys through out winter.
When you receive blessings, you should in turn bless others. Lets make this viral!
So we’re teaming up to get blankets for people in Strandfontein!!!
Yani Trout has created an initiative to get blankets to these people who are freezing, so lets spread some love and give some blankies!!
People can contact me to drop blankies at my house or at The Surf Shack in Muizenberg! We are going into Stranfontein on Monday to give blankets but the initiative stands for the whole winter!
The Dungeons comp was on standby for the Thursday but the winds came up. However the same pulse was heading up to Skeleton Bay. And it was the biggest swell I’ve ever seen! Monster booked us flights last minute and a day later we were in the middle of the desert waiting for the beast to awaken. It was hard to believe the hype, and the morning of the swell, 60 eager surfers stood on the beach squinting in the mist trying to see what was out there. I paddled out early and you could only see the wave when it was like 30 metres away. It was 8ft, spring low and going below sea level for a km. My entry wave for the day was an attempt on a big one. I went over the falls into dry sand and thought I was going to die. The day pushed on and the waves got bigger! By midday we were dodging 10 footers which looked like a mini version of the “CODE RED” Teahupoo Swell. There’s no way in on the big ones, it bends back on itself on virtually dry sand and grind like this for 2 minutes!!!!! But in between those is an opportunity to get the wave of your life. As you take off you have to get pumping, and most of the time it over takes you and you get seriously beaten into the sand. Davey Brand dislocated his shoulder and another dude broke his nose. It feels like you’re paddling into a closeout. The rip running down the point is ridiculous! So after every ride you have to walk around like 800m. Everything about this spot is raw and heavy. Its for ruggard men who are willing to get man handled in the hope of a wave of a life time.