Dungeons is over but beachies are turning on! In the last two weeks we’ve scored insane pits down the beach. I love this place!
Yesterday there was a much anticipated swell 21 second swell. I awoke at 5:30 and Long Beach was like a lake. When I woke up again at 7am I could see the swells doubling up, a sure sign that the swell is on the rapid increase. This same thing happens at Pipe in Hawaii when there’s a rapidly increasing swell, most of the spot become unsurfable because the waves double up on each other. By 8am there were 15ft sets hitting Sunset! I paddled out and had such a perfect session. uncrowded 12-15ft waves with clean faces and steep drops. I sneaked two barrels which set the tone for the day! At lunch time we had a barrel fest at Krons; fast hollow barrels reeling along a shallow sand bar. I ran back up the dune to my posie, fueled up with a bowl of Futurelife and then raced down the Noordhoek beach for two hours before dark. The waves cleaned up just before dark and as the full moon rose from behind the hills, James Louwe, Simon Hitchcock and I shared long, grinding barrels.
Then, today served up some of the more perfect waves I’ve seen this year! I’m currently surfed out and frothed out but the waves are still pumping and I’m going to squeeze out another session this arvo.
I suppose it’s perfect practice for Hawaii.
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Here we are shooting for the surf section! Yew